Fountain Pen Maintenance & Care
A well-maintained fountain pen can last a lifetime — many vintage pens from the 1920s and 1930s are still in daily use today. The good news is that fountain pen care is straightforward and doesn't require special skills or expensive equipment. A few simple habits will keep your pens writing reliably for decades.
Regular Cleaning Routine
Regular cleaning prevents ink residue from building up in the feed, which can restrict ink flow and cause skipping or hard starts. Here's what a basic cleaning looks like:
How Often to Clean
- Every ink change: Always flush your pen when switching to a different ink color. Mixing inks inside a pen can cause chemical reactions and clogging.
- Every 4–6 weeks: Even if you're using the same ink, a regular flush removes buildup that accumulates over time.
- Before extended storage: If you won't use a pen for more than a couple of weeks, clean it out completely before putting it away.
Basic Flushing Procedure
- Remove the ink cartridge or converter from the pen.
- Hold the nib and grip section under cool, running water (not hot — heat can damage some pen materials).
- If you have a converter, fill it with clean water and expel it repeatedly. This pushes water through the feed in the same path ink travels.
- Continue until the water runs completely clear. This may take several cycles for deeply saturated inks.
- Gently shake off excess water, dab the nib on a paper towel, and let the pen air-dry nib-down on a towel for a few hours (or overnight).
The five steps to a basic pen flush
Tip: If your pen uses cartridges and you don't have a converter for flushing, use a bulb syringe to push clean water through the grip section. You can find these at most pharmacies for a couple of dollars.
Deep Cleaning
Sometimes a basic flush isn't enough — especially if you've used shimmer inks, heavily saturated inks, or if a pen has been sitting with dried ink for a long time. In these cases, a deeper cleaning is needed.
Pen Flush Solutions
Commercial pen flush solutions (available from most fountain pen retailers) are mild cleaning agents designed to dissolve stubborn ink residue without damaging pen materials. You can also make a simple DIY pen flush by mixing a small drop of dish soap into a cup of water with a splash of household ammonia (about a 10:1 water-to-ammonia ratio). The soap breaks surface tension and the ammonia dissolves dried ink.
To use pen flush, fill the pen with the solution and let it soak for 15–30 minutes. Then flush with plain water until all the cleaning solution is removed. Always follow a pen flush with thorough rinsing.
Ultrasonic Cleaning
An ultrasonic cleaner uses high-frequency vibrations to dislodge stubborn particles from hard-to-reach areas. Place the disassembled grip section (nib and feed) in the ultrasonic bath with plain water and run it for 2–3 minutes. This is especially effective for shimmer ink particles that settle in the feed.
Caution: Do not put an entire pen in an ultrasonic cleaner — only the nib and feed section. The vibrations can damage some materials, loosen barrel finishes, or crack fragile celluloid. If your pen has decorative elements, hand washing is safer.
Changing Inks
Switching between ink colors is one of the joys of fountain pen ownership, but it's important to flush the pen thoroughly between inks. Here's the proper procedure:
- Empty the remaining old ink. If using a converter, expel the ink back into the bottle or into a sink.
- Flush the pen with cool water until the water runs clear (follow the basic flushing procedure above).
- Let the pen dry for a few hours or overnight. Some ink residue in the feed is normal and usually doesn't affect the next color noticeably — but for dramatic color changes (like switching from red to light blue), extra flushing is worthwhile.
- Fill with the new ink and write a few lines on scrap paper. The first few lines may show traces of the old color as residual moisture mixes with the new ink.
Tip: Keep dedicated pens for ink families you use frequently. Many enthusiasts assign specific pens to specific inks (or at least to specific color families), which reduces the need for constant deep cleaning.
Nib Care
The nib is the most delicate part of your fountain pen and the most critical for a good writing experience. A little care goes a long way.
The key parts of a fountain pen nib — handle with care
Avoiding Damage
- • Write with light, natural pressure
- • Cap your pen when not in use
- • Store nib-up when carrying
- • Hold at a 40–55 degree angle
- • Press hard like a ballpoint
- • Drop an uncapped pen
- • Lend to ballpoint users
- • Write nib-upside-down
- Never press hard. Fountain pens are designed to write with their own weight — pressing down can spread or misalign the tines, ruining the ink flow.
- Always cap your pen when not writing. A dropped, uncapped pen can land nib-first and bend or damage the tip permanently.
- Don't lend your pen to non-fountain-pen users. People accustomed to ballpoints tend to press hard and write at steep angles, which can damage a nib.
- Store nibs up when carrying. This prevents ink from pooling in the cap and causing burping (sudden ink release) when you uncap.
When to Seek a Nibmeister
A nibmeister is a specialist who adjusts, repairs, and customizes fountain pen nibs. You should consider one if:
- Your nib scratches in one direction but not others (a sign of misaligned tines)
- You want a custom grind (stub, italic, architect, etc.) for a different writing style
- The tines have been sprung (bent outward from excessive pressure)
- You've tried all troubleshooting steps and the pen still doesn't write properly
Storage
Daily Carry
For pens you carry every day, a pen sleeve or single-pen case protects against scratches and impacts. When carrying in a bag, store pens in a dedicated pocket or pen loop — loose pens can get knocked around and damaged. Always carry pens capped and nib-up when possible to prevent leaking.
Short-Term Storage (Days to Weeks)
If you won't use a pen for a few days, just make sure it's capped. Most modern pens with screw caps will keep ink from drying out for several weeks. Snap-cap pens may dry out faster — check on them every week or so. Store them in a pen case or stand, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
Long-Term Storage (Months or More)
For long-term storage, always clean the pen thoroughly and let it dry completely before putting it away. An inked pen left unused for months can develop dried ink deposits that are difficult to remove and may permanently stain the converter or barrel. Store cleaned, dry pens in a pen case or pouch in a cool, dry place.
Tip: Silica gel packets (the little moisture-absorbing packets that come with electronics) are helpful for long-term storage in humid climates. Toss one in your pen case to prevent moisture damage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Hard Starts
A "hard start" is when the pen doesn't write immediately after uncapping — you have to scribble or wait for ink to appear. This usually means the nib has dried slightly. Common causes include a loose cap seal, dry ambient conditions, or leaving the pen unused for too long. Solutions: make sure the cap seals tightly, store the pen nib-up, or switch to a wetter ink. If the problem persists, the nib tines may be too tight — a nibmeister can adjust this.
Skipping
Skipping means the pen intermittently stops laying down ink during writing, leaving gaps in your lines. This can be caused by: a dirty feed (flush the pen), ink that's too dry for the pen, baby's bottom (an over-polished nib tip that repels ink), or misaligned tines. Start by flushing and trying a different ink. If it persists, the nib may need professional adjustment.
Railroading
Railroading is when the pen writes two thin parallel lines instead of one solid line — it looks like railroad tracks. This happens when ink can't keep up with your writing speed, causing the nib slit to run dry momentarily. Common with very dry inks, fast writing, or flex nibs. Slow down, switch to a wetter ink, or check that the feed channels aren't clogged.
Dried-Out Pens
If a pen has sat unused with ink in it for a long time, the ink may have dried in the feed. Don't force it. Soak the grip section in cool water for several hours (or overnight). For stubborn cases, use pen flush solution. Most dried ink will dissolve with patience. If the ink has truly hardened, an ultrasonic cleaner can help dislodge it.
Ink Burping
"Burping" is a sudden release of excess ink, often when you uncap the pen or during temperature changes (like moving from a cold room to a warm one). The air inside the ink reservoir expands and pushes ink out. This is more common with piston fillers and eyedroppers that have large air spaces. Keeping the pen mostly full reduces the air volume and minimizes burping. Avoid leaving pens in direct sunlight or hot cars.
Remember: Most fountain pen problems have simple solutions. Before assuming something is wrong with your pen, try: (1) flushing it thoroughly, (2) trying a different ink, and (3) trying different paper. These three steps resolve the majority of issues.
Ready to Ink Up?
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